27 April, 2012

Celebrating Creole with Zesty Jambalaya



♫ click here for jazzy listening

Many moons ago the US claimed Louisiana from the French for less than four cents an acre.

In honor of the 1803 Louisiana Purchase’ anniversary this Monday and the rich culinary culture of its star city New Orleans, let’s make some jambalaya.

Zesty, comforting, and with that spicy Andouille kick, the dish is sure to satisfy your appetite for a classic Bayou meal.

Creole/Cajun is among the country’s oldest cuisines and was once practiced by indigenous tribes who hunted, fished and farmed for over 3,500 years before Columbus made his way to the States. Many of these ingredients have stood the test of time in the South. Take shrimp, crawfish, and filé powder – a spice made from ground sassafras leaves, used today to add character to gumbo.

A hybrid of Louisiana’s French, Spanish and Southern US heritage; jambalaya is influenced by Spanish paella, native tribes and très français food techniques.

One catch – most might not call jambalaya a “beginner” dish per se. No worries. Here, we’ll break down the hows and whys of this Louisiana favorite so you too can relax, throw on some jazz tunes, and get down with Creole in your kitchen.

New Orleans Chef John Besh recalls summer nights spent cooking cast iron jambalaya over a fire with family and friends in My New Orleans: The Cookbook. You can find his jambalaya recipe below.

Besh's take on the meal involves strategically-used spices like pimenton de la Vera smoked paprika, celery salt, cayenne, loads of garlic and a few bay leaves with thyme - which all work together to develop complex flavors early on.

The texture of the dish lies in its base brown - caramelizing onions, chicken, celery, Andouille sausage, bell peppers, bacon and (gasp!) a smidge of lard, all cooked in a heaping 3-5 gallon pot.

After this step, any jambalaya buff will add the rice and spice. This allows the grains to cook for several minutes in their own broth, a crucial step for flavoring the rice. Next we add tomatoes and chicken stock, allowing the rice (use beige, not white rice) to cook and flavor further.

At the very last minute, you’ll add the salt-and-pepper seasoned shrimp to ensure the seafood does not get too gummy having cooked for too long.

At any point in the recipe, you might, if you’re like me, think: What’s a Southern dish without some green tomatoes? If so, add them to the caramelizing step with onions and the lot. If you want to use okra, another Southern favorite – don’t add this then. It will start to mush and develop a slime! Instead, add okra with the shrimp toward the end.

If you’re a vegetarian or prefer something more seafood-based, feel free to nix the meats and sub them with some veggies and/or fish of your choice during the browning stage. Replacing chicken stock with vegetable will also turn out just fine. (Going seafood? Might I suggest a mix of crawfish, shrimp and mussels.)

For more recipes by Chef Besh, you can view his cookbook online. You might even want to take it all the way and pay homage to the Louisiana Purchase with some beignets and café brulot à la Emeril.

Either chance, heed warning that somewhere between the scent of Cajun spices dancing through your kitchen air with jazz’s sweet disposition - you might find yourself entranced by New Orleans.


























Photos and recipe courtesy of My New Orleans: The Cookbook by John Besh

23 April, 2012

Monday Reads: 5 Fresh Cookbooks under $20

The Camper Van Cookbook: Life on 4 Wheels, Cooking on 2 Rings

Gather round the camper van with authors Martin Dorey and Sarah Randell.

This text skips traditional cookbook form and instead serves a guide for hopping town when that "Friday Feeling" comes around - including a what-to-bring for campside cooking, tips for RV rentals, and of course, a road trip playlist.



Cooking with Curtis Stone: Easy, Everyday and Adventurous Recipes for the Home Cook

The Aussie chef's laissez-fair style shines when it comes to rewiring the not-so-basics. This text, he takes on a carnivorous-chantilly mix of seafood/game and fancy desserts. See: BBQ scallops with citrus, apple tarte tatin, prosciutto-wrapped guinea fowl and passionfruit raspberry creme caramel.

Bonus: Check
his last book for invigorating lime & mint-dressed watermelon and "brekkie" favorite - clove-spiced pumpkinseed granola.

What if you could whip up healthy, mouthwatering meals that your family loved--without making a mess?, asks writer Brette Sember, rhetorically so. What's more, the French-inspired technique en papillote is geared to seal in flavor while food cooks.

Eco-Tip: If you've got mamma Earth in mind (especially near Earth day!) parchment - although paper, can minimize water waste associated with running the dishwasher or sink.


Pure Flavor: 125 Fresh All-American Recipes from the Pacific Northwest 

Authors Kurt Beecher Dammeier and Laura Holmes Haddad pay homage to Pacific Northwest cooking, highlighted by surrounding mountains, farms, rivers and, naturally, the Pacific ocean.

The book praises food almost poetically:
"Pure flavor is the essence of everything we eat - food that tastes like it's supposed to and reflects the natural rhythm of the seasons."





Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined

Jake Kosmas and Dushan Zaric explore underground cocktail culture with swill like Elderflower Spritz and Chai-infused Sweet Vermouth.

Reworking the classics, you'll feel like you've gained access to a world of speakeasy secrets locked in time. 
These drinks are truly made to remember. But shhhh.

20 April, 2012

New Zealand, Land of the Long White Cloud

Whaia te iti kahuranga ki te tuahu koe me he maunga teitei (Māori)
- Aim for the highest cloud so that if you miss it, you will hit a lofty mountain

New Zealand Adventures from Joe Peyronnin on Vimeo.

Just a few memories I put together. :) xo

16 April, 2012

Kielbasa Challenge: Are You Game?

Call it kielbasi, klobase or kolbassi - But what's in a name? So patrons of the ninth-annual Kielbasa Challenge might say.

The contest began years ago with two brothers crazy for kielbasa and a couple of links, and has since found its way into a sort of local tradition where friends and family of festival founders Mark and Jack Gentilesco gather to deliberate the area's best of the Polish treat.

Tossing around terms like "full-bodied," "nicely spiced" and "lingering flavor," a group of 27 judges rated the appearance, taste and texture of 23 local varieties at this year's meeting.

Lending an atmosphere more like a wine room than a kielbasa hut, participants young and old put their tastebuds to the test, eating grapes and crackers between bites to cleanse and neutralize the palate.

The Challenge is split into four tasting phases with the first three an overall sampling and the final a "lightening round" of the top five. Below, you'll find some photos and a recording of co-founder Mark Gentilesco announcing the Top 5.

Since this sausage fest just happens to be held in my home (yep, Jack is my dad,) I thought I'd finally partake and see what this kielbasa hype was all about. I know, I know - we're so not a normal family. And you wonder why I can't stop blabbing about food.

P.S. My favorites #10 and #11 didn't rank so highly with the connoisseurs of the bunch. Apparently my taste in kielbasa is that of the "too porous" lot, and chock-full of oregano.

Honorable comments from the festival include:

“The elusive number five.” -- On a scale of 1-5, the elusive #5 is a rating granted only to truly worthy links

“There are some places oregano just doesn’t belong. Trust me, I'm Polish.” -- Of #10, a kielbasa with identity crisis

“The cats won’t even eat this. They do eat dog food, though.” -- Kielbasa #19 came in way, way last

“Is 3 a rating? I just put "tastes like soggy waffles.” -- My little cousin Josh, a first timer