04 May, 2012

Mālō e lelei, Tonga! A Love Story.



Tucked between thousands of South Pacific isles, the Kingdom of Tonga is just a few sprinkles on the map; but this tiny nation known to many as "The Friendly Islands" has much to give.

Tonga is comprised of 176 islands, 52 of which are inhabited by little over 103,000 people. Its capital, Nuku'alofa, is found on Tonga's mainland Tongatapu - whose terrain is made of coral limestone and doused with lush volcanic soils.

Slightly chillier than Tonga's other islands, Tongatapuans suffer temperatures as low as 60 degrees in their winter months. Arctic, right? Only joking, the weather in Tonga is absolutely gorgeous, everywhere, year round (Well, minus cyclone season.)

Given its bountiful landscape and incredible biodiversity, the Kingdom's national cuisine is characterized by a variety of Tongan staples like coconut, wild pig, seaweed and arabica harvests which thrive in Tonga's toasty, dewy climate.

If you're in town for a few days, you'll find welcome in most Tongan households, where it's casual to drop by for a hello/Mālō e lelei or arrange that you have dinner in a home.

Intimate in nature, Tonga is truly a Pacific treasure and an approachable doorway into the twists and tangles of islands that span the South Pacific. Take its kava presence - also seen in neighboring Fiji and Samoa.

In many parts of the Pacific, it's customary to gather round a heaping bowl of this murky-looking liquid made from the root of Piper methysticum, socializing and clapping between swigs of the numbing, relaxing drink (that tastes slightly like dirt. If my childhood memories spent playing in the woods serve me well.) That's not to say if you understand one Pacific Island, you understand them all - but shared features like kava circles are truly the glue to Polynesia's cultural collage.

Having spent a week in Tonga last year, I've created a "Friendly Islands" Food Bucket List for you! -- So you can be sure to explore the most of what this glorious little dot on the map has to give.

If you're thinking about island hopping, look into ferry travel between Tongatapu, Vava'u and the Ha'apai groups, and begin your research here. :)


Must-Dos/Bucket List:


1) Start with a traditional Tongan buffet.

Trust me, even the snobbiest foodie would be surprised by the unique ingredients served at what might seem like a tourist trap. There's really no sense feeling like you're doing anything cliche in Tonga - it's tough to avoid going local on this ultra Friendly Island unless you're literally locked inside your beachside fale (Tonga's version of a hotel.)

So, when you get to this buffet, breathe through the sort of droning, sort of amazing Tongan fire dances and get to the meal itself - wherein you'll find sea grapes or limu (a beady, almost alien-looking seaweed,) taro root and other tubers like cassava, seafoods cooked in coconut milk, a pig roast and a gracious mix of fresh tropical fruits. For dessert: Sticky, glossy, caramel bits of Tongan Sweets or steamed Puteni are often served.

2) Visit a nearby marketplace.

There is no better way to feel like you're a part of Tongan society and even see some foods exclusive to this part of the world.

Strands of tiny peppers that look like Christmas lights, umea nuts, lemani or lemons that are green on the outside and yellow-orange on the inside, and a digestive water made from various herbs said to have healing properties, are all part of a classic Tongan outdoor market. Enormous roots of taro and cassava with straw-poked coconuts are nestled between jewelry stalls displaying carved whale bone and shells, and a beauty aisle with items like a handmade body oil mixed from indigenous plants.

In the corridors, you'll find Tongans weaving skirts, baskets and fans atop grass mats (Yes, they really do wear thatch skirts on this side of the Earth.) The sound of guitar and friendly natives fills the streets, the air is warm, the grass is green, and you think to yourself, what a wonderful world.

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