For auténtico Latin American cuisine, Pollos Mario in Hempstead is truly a local and budding endeavor worthwhile.
With its indoor attempts at earthen food styles sans stylization; Pollos humbly takes on skillet paella, Spanish rotisserie and pages of South American Parilla dishes like an OTC fix for the restaurant biz; slightly unsung and with taste and technique so right that it falls second best only to a backyard paella pit itself.
Pollos has more recently earned the attention of both a nearby and traveling bunch perhaps largely due to its anti-franchise franchise feel.
Its space – No Gaudi but certainly roomy, merits a generous crowd on weekends as a milieu of agreeable yet semi-misplaced island beats liven the already merry ambiance.
I silently praise the counterbalance of family-friendly and a more mature batch, eyeing the sizable cocktail menu set to jumbo daiquiris and a stylish bar section.
A cheerful waiter approaches and we inquire a round of Leche con Jugo. Non-alcoholic but I have no chagrin.
The drinks arrive in little time and we reprise the range of tropical flavors like lyrics to a Beach Boys song - mango, pineapple, coconut and guava, leche con co-co (“That’s where we want to go-ooo.”)
My swill of choice is passion fruit, a delicious contrast between tart and smooth and an awesome balance for some savories to come.
I peruse the brightly seasoned menu and my mind is dancing la Bamba.
The carte du jour is authentic yet approachable with echoes of Latin street food and helpful photos of each item (for all you Latin newbies like me.)
The carte du jour is authentic yet approachable with echoes of Latin street food and helpful photos of each item (for all you Latin newbies like me.)
I toggle between a Parrillada, Milanesa de Res and seafood Asopado but my indecision leads me to Churrasco - a grilled sirloin served with rice, pinto beans and a zesty house-dressing topped salad. Sweetly simple and one of their most popular.
The food arrives again in moderate time toward our hungry and curious soiree. Lapped napkins and cheers of approval; the implicit “Buen Provecho” is heard.
As for others at the table - my father opts the massive Parrillada, a ten-item fix priced delightfully frugal. For < $25: Grilled steak, pork, chicken, sausage, corn cake, cassava, potato, salad, rice & beans is yours arriving not only in contention with rustic Latin American cooking in variety but also in hospitality. This dish could feed a conga line.
My Churrasco lands medium-rare, still sizzling, with yellow rice and beans. I slink a few plantains from a seat over for some extra pep, lending a lovely natural sweetness to the steak. Generously portioned and under $20 the Churrasco gets my vote. Kudos, Chef Mario.
Plates cleared and withdrawals ensued, I swipe remnants of my little brother’s seafood chowder of course solely for the sake of reviewing the dish.
The broth is stewy yet light in character and well executed in texture points (10/10? Si.) Almost Peruvian-influenced (marked by a tangy heat and flavorings like corn cob and shrimp shell stock,) the dish has a sort of lemony freshness. Though this may be slightly biased. My palate leans sour and I praise anything I can call a lemon.
Even still, the Churrasco is dubbed our Pollos table favorite. “The dish of the night,” all comply.
In our stuffed conclusive bites we vow to brave dessert, the colorful confectionary menu practically frowning upon the idea of doing otherwise.
The Tres Leches cake was moist and much to my liking not overly sweet.
The flan was great, perhaps the best I have had. Ever! Notes of cotton candy, toffee, cardamom (and perhaps hints of taro?) flattered its typeface caramel taste. Perfect finish and a nice spin on a signature.
Overall I would not oblige to frequenting Pollos Mario, the “anti-franchise franchise” placed eloquently in the vastly stigmatized downtown Hempstead.
Like a lovely cloud of culinary hope; Pollos breathes zest into a local cuisine and unpretentiously homogenizes a variety of Spanish-speaking culinary regions into one big happy Melting Pot.
The food was to put it simply, hodgepodge delicious; and the atmosphere, pleasant and vibrantly its own.
The food was to put it simply, hodgepodge delicious; and the atmosphere, pleasant and vibrantly its own.
A word of advice: arrive really, really starving with friends and family. Leave full, happy and brimming with Latino spirit.
photos via pollosmario.net
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